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An Account of Some of the Rude Stone Monuments and Ancient Burial Mounds in Monmouthshire is in Prehistory.
An Account of Some of the Rude Stone Monuments and Ancient Burial Mounds in Monmouthshire. Mary E. Bagnall-Oakeley. Jan 1889 assisted by Rev. W. Bagnall-Oakeley. Monmouthshire & Caerleon Antiquarian Association
Introduction
CAMDEN in his description of Great Britain says, "the County of Monmouth called formerly Wentset, and Wentsland, and by the Britains Gwent, lies south of Brecknockshire and Herefordshire. On the north it is divided from Herefordshire by the River Mynwy; on the east from Gloucestershire by the River Wye; on the west from Glamorganshire by the Rhymni; and on the south it is bounded by the Severn Sea". Mr. Wakeman suggests that the earliest settlers in this part of the country were a colony of Celtic Wends, who gave their name to the land of Gwent, which it has retained to the present time. Within this area it is proposed to notice some of the rude stone monuments which mark the burial places of its ancient inhabitants: a very considerable interest attaches to these sepulchres, as it is from their contents that most of the knowledge we possess respecting these ancient races is derived. It must be remembered that these graves were not originally in the state we now see them, but were covered with great mounds of earth; they were not the burial places of the common people, but special monumental structures reserved for the illustrious dead; and the habit of raising mounds of earth to mark the resting place of the loved and honoured may be traced in all countries to the remotest times. When these great barrows were in their original condition they must have been very imposing structures; and as they were generally placed on an elevated spot, they could be seen from a long distance, and became no doubt places of meeting for the tribes who erected them. Many of the barrows had originally an encircling ditch, or mound, or both at their base, but the process of agriculture has destroyed all traces of most of them. Some kind of inclosure seems to have been general in connection with places of sepulture throughout the whole of Britain. It is found in circles of stones where that material is abundant, and in mounds and ditches where but little stone exists. In some places the stones are actually within the mound itself; in some they are close against the base, and in other examples the circle stands at some little distance around it; in the latter case the stones are often of a very large size.
From careful comparison of the contents of the most ancient burying places in this country, and indeed over the greater part of Europe, there is little doubt that the primitive inhabitants were men of comparatively short stature, with long boat-shaped heads (dolichocephalic), and that they were not acquainted with any implements or weapons, beside those made with stone and bone The discovery of very rude stone implements in the drift ( river gravels ) has however proved that a race of men occupied the country in more remote times, but as we have no remains of them except these implements, the long-headed men may be regarded as the first inhabitants of our Island. The graves of these men are found under mounds of earth, which are much longer than they are broad, and which are known as Long Barrows: these contain long stone chambers, but there are no examples of this kind of burial in the district we are describing. To the Neolithic1 period we must also assign the Megalithic monuments which have been generally denuded of their covering of earth, and stand exposed as great structures of stone, which are known as Cromlechs. They have been described as British, Gaulish, Cymric, and Celtic by different writers, but by whatever name they may be called, they are probably the burial places of the primeval people, who inhabited the land of Gwent. Prof. Wilson says, "there is no evidence that these primitive structures are of Celtic origin, and the tendency of research rather leads to the conclusion that they are not, but that they are the work of an older race, of whose language we have little reason to believe any trace has survived to our own day * * * the name by which they are generally known in England is however Celtic, viz: Cromlech, from Cromen, a roof or vault, and Lech, a stone. Probably this name is of recent origin compared with the structures themselves, for it is just such a term as strangers would use simply describing the monument as it appeared to them, but conveying no idea of its original use2. The primitive races continued to occupy the land with slow and slight progression for many centuries: large forests covered a great portion of the country, and we have under a general uniformity of circumstances satisfactory evidence of a thinly populated country, occupied by the same tribes and under the same circumstances for many ages. In process of time the early people were conquered, and dispossesssed by a taller and more powerful race than themselves, with round heads3 (brachycephalic), by whom the knowledge of fusing metals had been acquired. It is generally considered these later people were of Celtic origin, and that they crossed over to England in two different groups at a considerable interval of time.
Note 1. Sir John Lubbock divides the earlier epochs of Prehistoric Archeology into two periods,
1. "That of the Drift; when man shared the possession of Europe with the Manmouth, the Cave-bear and the Wooly-haired Rhinocerus. This we may call the Paleolithic period. 2. The later or polished Stone Age, a period characterized by beautiful weapons of flint and other kinds of stone **** This we may call the Neolithic period." - Prehistoric Times, p. 2.
Note 2. Wilson's Archeology and Prehistoric Annals of Scotland, p. 68, 69.
Note 3. Dr. Rolleston Proceedings of Bristol and Gloucester, A.S. Vol. 1, p. 5, 6.
These people buried their dead in round barrows, and it is in these graves we first find implements and weapons of bronze. There must have been of necessity a long period of transition before the stone and bone implements were completely superseded, and during this period both stone and bronze are found in the same graves. After this time the huge cromlech and chambered grave gave way to the smaller cist, and the size of the covering mound gradually lessened till they were only slightly raised above the surrounding earth.
Several varieties occur in the actual shape of sepulchral mounds in different parts of the country, but for our present purpose it is sufficient to divide them, as Prof. Rolleston does, into " Long barrows - long skulls, and Round barrows - round skulls."1
Note 1. Rolleston B. and J. Proceedings, Vol. 1v, p. 32.
The manner in which the dead have been disposed within these barrows differs very considerably. Sometimes the body has been placed in a cist, or chamber, in an unburnt state, and sometimes cremation has taken place; but there can be no doubt that both methods prevailed at the same time, for several instances have occurred where these different kinds of burials are so intimately connected as to prove they were contemporaneous, and both were obviously men in the same position of life. The more ancient of the inhabitants of this country did not usually practise cremation, though many examples prove most conclusively that it was occasionally their habit. Dr. Rolleston says in explanation of this fact, " that probably where these tribes were in peaceable possession they buried their dead unburnt, and that cremation was practised only, or mostly, out of necessity, such as war or pestilence produces."1
Note 1. B. and G. Vol. 1, p. 55.
With the later people we have the cinerary urn and new rites of burial. The round barrows have burnt bodies sometimes contained in urns, sometimes burnt bodies not so treated,
sometimes bodies which are unburnt with or without drinking vessels; these last are almost always found in a contracted position with the knees near the face, and in this particular the buried bodies of the long barrows resemble them, except when they appear to have been sitting round their chambered graves. A very small number of bodies appear to have been buried lying at full length. There must have been some reason for this of which we are at present ignorant, but perhaps the most simple one exists in the idea that the sepulchral chamber was intended to be as similar as possible to the habitation of the living, and that they were arranged in such a manner as they would assume in their long narrow dwellings. This was carrying out an idea prevalent after Christian times, that it was unworthy of a warrior to die in his bed; and the rude Briton was interred with his weapons by his side ready to spring up when the sound of the war cry should summon him to renew the strife. Both the long and short headed races had an idea of a future life, though necessarily a very imperfect one; and they laid their dead to rest, provided with what they supposed might be their future wants, and in this respect they were more enlightened than the highly civilized and cultured Romans, who buried their dead without implement, or weapon, or food vessel, and to whom the grave with a few tear bottles, and an urn of ashes was the end of life. It was formerly thought that ancient burial cists invariably lay north and south, but this is not borne out by facts, and abundant evidence exists to prove that there was no universal use of any particular directions in laying the dead: there are however a large number of instances which seem to indicate that at one time it was generally placed north-east, and south-west, with the head so arranged that it might face the meridian sun1; another proof that their dead were "not lost, but gone before."
Note 1. Wilson, p. 70.
GAER LLWYDD
GAER LLWYDD [Map] - The Grey Fort. Plate 1. Near the Road from Chepstow to Usk at about 6 miles from the former place stands the great Cromlech of Gaer Llwydd. Five of the supporting stones remain in situ, though the one at the N. end has fallen inwards; they vary in height from 3ft. to 4ft. 6in., and are composed of conglomerate. There is a peculiarity in their arrangement, from which it would appear that the cist was either a double one, or that a supplemental cist had been added at one end, which is unusual. The covering stone must have been very large before it was broken, as it still measures 12ft. 5in. by 5in.; and is 9in. to 1ft. thick. Several of the stones, which formerly stood in this Cromlech, have been used in buildings near at hand. The length of the whole structure was 19ft. long by 9ft. 6in. wide, and the cist lies N. and S. See Plate II. The base of the mound is visible on the North West, but has been totally destroyed on the other side by the road to Usk, before mentioned. It is evident that the mound was removed long ago, for the name Gaer Llwydd, or Grey Fort, is a very old one, and describes the structure, as it now appears, divested of its covering of earth1.
Note 1. Many writers maintain that some of these cists and chambers were always intended to stand "Free," from the idea that the erecters would not have expended so much trouble and labour upon them, if they had intended to cover them up at once; but in answer to this is the fact, that some of the very largest have been actually cleared of their superincumbent mound within memory, as Lanyon Quoit in Cornwall; and some of the most ornate are still enveloped in their original coverings, as Dowth, and New Grange in Ireland and Gavr Innis in Britany.
TREDEGAR
Plate III. About a mile from Trédegar Park is a farm Gwern-y-Cleppa, where formerly stood the residence of Ivor Hael, and upon a sloping bank to the South West in part of the ancient park, are the ruins of what was originally a large Cromlech [Gwern-y-Cleppa Long Barrow [Map]]. Facing the Bristol Channel, with a glorious expanse of hill and vale stretching out for many miles beyond it, the situation of this burial place is grand in the extreme, and when covered with its superincumbent mound of earth must have been visible at a very long distance. The supporting stones have been mutilated, and the coverer broken, but enough remains to show that the whole structure was of considerable size, see Plate II.; three of the uprights remain in situ, the largest being 3ft. Tin. broad by 2ft. 9in. thick, and measures 3ft. 6in. high, but appears to have been broken off at this height; another stone, which evidently formed one of the supports now lies partly under the coverer, and this measures 2ft. 6in. square and is 4ft. 6in. long, which was probably the original height of the cist; these stones are of conglomerate or millstone grit. The covering stone has been split in two, and only one part remains, which measures 7ft. 8in by 5ft 6in., but as this is partly covered with soil at its edge, it may be a little wider, it is of silicious grey sand- stone. The cist lay S.E. and N.W., and the mound, which covered it, was about 50 ft. in diameter, of which traces still remain.
The field adjoining the one in which the Cromlech stands, is called Maes Arthur ( Arthur's field ) and it was so much the custom in Medieval times to connect ancient megalithic monuments with the name of this valiant prince, that it is probable at some period this Cromlech was looked upon as his grave; a circumstance which we find in many parts of England and Wales.
In the parish of St. Mellons, on a farm called Gwael-y-filast, about two miles S.W. of the Cromlech, stands a very large Maenhir [Gwael-y-filast Standing Stone [Map]], Plate IV, which measures 10ft. 6in. high, 7ft. 6in. broad and 2ft. 6in. thick. Maenihirion, or Long Stones frequently occur in districts where Cromlechs and Stone Circles are found, and a considerable doubt exists as to their use and meaning, some of them were no doubt sepulchral, for burials have taken place at their base, some were probably memorial stones, and other may have been ancient boundary marks
TRELLECH
Plate V. The three stones [Harold's Stones, Trellech [Map]] now remaining at Trellech, and from which the town derives its name ( Tre - Town and Lech - Stone ) probably formed part of a large circle which stood at some little distance round a sepulchral mound. The two largest stones decline very considerably from the perpendicular, but whether designedly so placed, or not, it is impossible to say. The idea that treasure was buried at the foot of such great stones, often caused their destruction in the endeavour to reach it; or the ground around them was so much disturbed in the process, that their original perpendicular position was changed in after years. The largest stone measures 14ft, 4in. on the South East side, but a perpendicular line from its apex to the ground on the opposite side gives only 12ft. At the distance of 20ft. to the North stands the second of the stones, which is 10ft. high by 2ft. 6in. wide by 2ft. 4in thick. and at 14ft. 6in. in the same direction is the third, which is 8ft. high, 3ft. 5in wide by 15in. thick; no mark of tool, or carving can be detected on either of them, and they are all conglomerate.
The common centre for these stones is 42ft., so we may conclude they are the remains of a circle 84ft. in diameter, see Plate VI. Very near to these stones on the opposite side of the road to Chepstow is an earthwork, which may have enclosed an ancient settlement, but is unsuited for a camp, as it is commanded by higher ground close adjacent. A few miles further along this same road is Trellech Grange, formerly called Maen-fon, or the Stone Stump1, from which we may infer, that at one time it was the site of a Maenhir now destroyed. A short distance from the Trellech Stones on their N.W. side stands a large mound of earth 450ft. in circumference at the base, and 150ft. at the top, which has been moated all round, and was formerly considered sepulchral, and as in some way connected with the Stones. This is however very improbable; it was doubtless an ancient Romano British, or Saxon Castellum, which was afterwards surmounted by the keep-tower of one of the Marshalls or Clares, early Lords of Trellech2.
Note 1. Antiquarian excursions in the neighbourhood of Monmouth, Thos. Wakeman, P.
Note 2. For an account of these mounds, see History of Pencoyd, and Langstone, by Mr. O. Morgan and Mr. Wakeman, pub. by C. & M.A.S. p. 33.
Coxe in his History of Monmouthshire, p. 322, says- "About half a mile from the village of Trellech to the left of road to Monmouth, in the midst of an open common I observed another of these Stones placed upright, near seven feet high, aud surrounded by a small circular trench; and on the opposite side of the road is a low mound with scattered fragments of stones, which appear to have been placed in a circular form. This latter mound has now entirely disappeared, but at about a mile from the town on the New House Farm can still be seen the circular trench, men- tioned by Coxe, and slight remains of the mound within, but the Maenhir has long since disappeared. It seems to have formed a well-known land-mark, as the locality is still called 'The Pecked Stone."
In the garden of the School-house at Trellech is a Sun-dial supported by a large squared stone, carved with representations of the antiquities, which made the town famous. On one side is the mound, with the inscription "Magna Mole" above it, and below "O Quot hic Sepulti," on the next side is a figure of a well (referring to the ancient mineral well in the vicinity) and "Maxima Fonte" above, and below "Domina Magd Probert ostendit," on the third side are the stones with "Major Saxis" above them, and "Hic fuit Victor Haraldus " beneath, thus traditionally connecting them with Harald's victory, as the mound at Heston brake was connected with his burial; both of course incorrectly. The sizes of the stones are given nearly accurately as 14ft., 10ft., 8ft., but they are not represented as inclining from the perpen- dicular, as they do at the present time.
GREY HILL
Plate VII . About nine miles west of Chepstow, and adjoining the ancient forest of Wentwood, lies the Grey Hill, Mynydd Llwydd, upon the sloping side of which is an ancient necropolis [Gray Hill Stone Circles [Map]], which appears from its remains to have been in use for a considerable period . The first of the groups of burial mounds occurs about 300 yards from the bottom of the rough part of the hill on the south-east side, and consists of cairns of stone and earth, each about 40 feet in diameter, around the bases of which have been arranged a row of stones about 1 foot in height . These cairns have been so much reduced in size by the removal of their materials, that they are not at present more than one to two feet above the level of the surrounding ground, and would be difficult to find, unless the fern which covers the hill had been recently cut . At a short distance in a northerly direction is another group, but these are still more ruined . Each of these cairns has contained a small cist, one or two of which are still perfect, except that they want their covering stone . They lie N.E. and S.W., and measure about 3 feet long by 2 feet wide, and are at present about 1 foot deep . Ascending the hill in a north westerly direction at about 100 yards from these cairns is an interesting cist of larger size, 6 feet long by 3 feet wide, and nearly 3 feet deep; this is nearly complete but wants the coverer; it lies due east and west, and is evi- dently a more ancient grave than those on the lower part of the hill . The cairn, which enclosed it, has been almost entirely destroyed by an old fence, and modern road, which ran through it .
Still ascending the hill at about 200 yards to the north-east are the remains of a stone circle 32 feet in diameter, and which probably surrounded a large cairn of stones, or barrow of earth; the stones which compose it are set on their edge, and are about 2 feet high, almost touching each other where none have been removed . Of these there are only 13 stones now remaining, several having been removed since the sketch on plate vII was done ( the plan shows the circle as it is at present ) . Inside the circle, not in the centre but on the S.E. side, are two stones probably the remains of the burial chamber, or cist: the largest of these is 6ft . 6in . high, 3ft . 7in . wide, and 1ft . 7in . thick; the other stone has been broken off at about 2 feet from the ground . Eight feet outside the circle on the S.E. side stands another large stone, 5ft . 9in . high, 3ft . lin . broad, and 1ft . Sin . thick; this may have been a single stone, or maenhir, or an upright support of another burial place, in which case the two covering mounds would have touched each other, and have been what are described as twin-barrows . At about the distance of 60 yards in a N. W. direction, and visible from the circle, stands a large maenhir 7ft . 6in . high; Plate IV, and in the same direction on the brow of the hill is a very ancient fence, or boundary line, composed of two rows of stone about 18 inches high, set up on end about 2 feet apart . At the foot of the hill on the west side stand the celebrated Foresters ' Oaks beneath the shade of which the Courts of the Forest of Wentwood have been held from time immemorial .
HESTON BRAKE TUMULUS
Plate VIII . At Heston Brake near Portskewitt Station is a chambered grave [Heston Brake Long Barrow [Map]], which was originally placed upon natural mound, and then covered with earth; most of this earth had been removed, and the largest stones stood exposed . The situation is marked in the Ordnance Map as the Rough Grounds, and in Omerod's Strigulensia it is described as a mound, called Heston Brake, raised artificially on the edge of a dingle, and having a seeming elevation very much increased by natural slopes towards the North East . It has 66 a flat summit, and commands a view of the Severn towards Aust, and is covered with a venerable shade of Oaks, and Yew Trees . In the centre of this summit is a space about 27ft . long by 9ft . wide, surrounded originally as it seems by 13 wide upright stones, now time-worn, mossed over, or matted with ivy . One is at the East end, two at the West, and three remain at each side, with spaces for the four which have been removed . Unless it is a sepulchral memorial, connected with the massacre of Harold's servants by Caradoc in 1065, no conjecture as to its object can be offered." The mound now presents a very different appearance to what it did in Mr. Omerod's time, and there is no doubt that it is entirely unconnected with the massacre above alluded to, and that it is the burial chamber of some of the ancient inhabitants of the country .
It was opened in August, 1888, by some of the members of the Monmouthshire and Caerleon Antiquarian Association, and a few friends of the Clifton Antiquarian Club, and it was found to consist of two chambers connected internally, and lying East and West . The most Easterly chamber is nearly perfect, except that the covering stones are all gone; the soil inside had been disturbed, and its contents broken to pieces, probably in uprooting " the venerable oaks, " described by Mr. Omerod . The side stones of this chamber are from 2 to 3ft . 6in . high, and are water worn, brought from the shore of the Severn . In two of the largest stones and nearly opposite to one another are holes about 1ft . diameter, pierced through the stone diagonally, as shown on the plan . Some doubt arose as to whether these holes were natural or artificial, but those best acquainted with the stone of the district consider that in the case of the one on the South side, there is no doubt that if it was a natural orifice, it has been much enlarged by artificial means . It is difficult to surmise the object of these holes, which have been sometimes found in the stones which closed a cist, or chamber; but it has been suggested that they were used for conveying food for the use of the departed, or that they were intended for the free egress of the spirit . At the entrance to the lower chamber are two large upright stones, considerably higher than the others . The one on the North is 6ft . high, and 2ft . wide, the other has been broken off at about 2ft . from the ground . This chamber is 13ft . long, and 5ft . 2in wide; the other is 9ft . long, and 4ft . 10in . wide . At the South corner of the West chamber were found part of a human skull, and other bones much broken, and in the East corner a few more fragments of human bones, Plate IX . In the lower chamber in the West corner some human teeth and finger bones, some bones of an ox, and two smooth round stones were discovered . The position in which all the bones were found, leads to the conclusion that the interments were in a contracted position, placed in the corners of the chambers; there was no appearance of cremation having taken place .
PENHOW
To the transition period between the stone and bronze ages we must assign the barrow, which was opened at Penhow in 1860, by some members of the Monmouthshire and Caerleon Antiquarian Society . The burial had taken place without any cist, or covering stones, and was enclosed in a low round mound .
In it were discovered some "flakes of flint, a stone foreign to the locality, and two blades of bronze daggers," now in the Museum at Caerleon .
The ancient sepulchres here described are all situated south of a line drawn across the County from Trellech on the East to Bedwellty on the West, and in this district the summits of many of the hills are crowned with the great camps of the early inhabitants; earthworks are also found in less elevated situations . A chain of camps consisting of Gaer Vawr, Cwrt-y-Gaer, the camps above St. Arvans, some earthworks near Piercefield park, and Hardwick reach from the north of the district to the great camp at Portskewitt; while on the southern, or western sides the chain is continued by a cluster of small earthworks on the west of Wentwood, the camps of Newport, St. Julians, the Gaer in Tredegar Park, Graig-y- Saisson, Caerleon, and Penrhôs, reaching almost to the great fortress and mound of Twmbarlwm . In some of these ancient fortresses may have lived and died the men, whose bones rested in the old graves of the Land of Gwent, and though much difference of opinion exists on this subject, it is a fact worth noticing that similar graves are almost always found in the immediate neighbourhood of such ancient fortfi- cations and works of defence, and occasionally within their limits .
On the North side of the mound at a spot marked on the plan, the workmen came upon three pieces of broken pottery; one of these was black, and soft burnt, easily cut with a knife; another was grey hard burnt with lines upon it; both of these are probably relics of sepulchral urns; and near them lay a small piece of burnt bone . A third piece of pottery was very hard red ware, somewhat like Roman Samian ware, and is no doubt a relic of Roman, or Romano-British times . The discovery of these remains on the outside of the chamber, and about three feet below the surface show that several secondary interments have taken place in this barrow . This is so often found to have been the case, that we may take it as a fact that so far from disturbing the graves of their conquered enemies, these primitive races preferred to lay their own dead in places already considered sacred for such a purpose .