Books, Prehistory, Wiltshire Archaeological Magazine 1860 V7 Pages 321-333

In the unpublished work of Aubrey, the "Monumenta Britannica," the old Wiltshire antiquary, after treating of "Barrows" and Urnes," has a separate heading of "Sepulchres," which he distinguishes by this name from ordinary barrows or tumuli of earth. He notices and gives sketches of one in Anglesey, (Y Lleche, near Holyhead,) one at Banner's Down near Bath, and of the megalithic chamber near Saumur, in France. His more numerous examples, however, are all from North Wilts; and comprise the long stone barrows at Monkton and West Rennet, referred to above; another on the down between Marlborough and Hackpen, probably that of which the ruinous remains may be seen near Rockley; that called Lugbury [Map], near Castle Combe; that at Lanhill near Chippenham;¹ and that called the Giant's Caves, at Luckington. Two less distinctive examples, at Leighterton and Lasbury in Gloucestershire², are added, and then follows the brief description of "Wayland Smyth." Aubrey's first acquaintance with this monument appears to have been derived from Elias Ashmole [See The Antquities of Berkshire], the Berkshire historian and founder of the Ashmolean Museum. Aubrey's original notice of it is so vague as to be of little value, though sufficient to prove our point. It is as follows:-

About a mile from White-Horse-hill (in Berkshire) on the top of the hill are a great many great stones, which were layed there on purpose; but as tumbled out of a cart: without any order; but some of them are placed edgewise: they are a good breadth; and in length about * * * * yards.—From Elias Ashmole, Esq."

Note 1. Within the last few years these two mounds have been excavated and the results published in the Wiltshire Archæol. Mag., vol. iii., pp. 67, 164.

Note 2. Oblong stone barrows, having chambers, cists, or pillar-stones at one end, are common in the oolitic district of Gloucestershire; where, as in the neighbouring part of Wiltshire, they are of course formed of blocks of oolite. Such exist at Boxwell, Avening, Gatcombe and Duntesbourne Abbots, (Archæologia, vol. xvi., p. 361); and, as we write, one has been explored, by the Cotswold Club, at Nympsfield, very near that at Uley, referred to at p. 326. In this, likewise, the remains of double cruciform chambers have been found.

At a later period, Aubrey must have visited the spot himself, and made the ground plan, which, reduced from a sketch inserted in the Monumenta Britannica, is here figured for the first time, from a facsimile, for the use of which we are obliged to the Rev. Canon Jackson. On this plan, Aubrey tells us that the Sepulchre is 74 paces long, 24 broade," and that the chamber or cave at the south end is "like that by Holy-head," meaning no doubt that of Y Lleche, which he had already described.³ He adds a note as to the size of the stones, which he says were 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 foote.⁴ The plan itself was clearly not laid down from measurements, and can have no pretensions to minute accuracy. We cannot, however, but conclude from it, that the continuous embankment opposite the north end of the cave, to which Professor Donaldson refers, and where he would place an "alley of stones leading to an opening in the outer ring," consists of the remains of the northern end of this oblong tumulus.

Note 3. The notice of this sepulchre in the Monumenta Britannica is as follows:

"In Anglesey, about a mile from Holy-head, on a hill near the way that leads to Beaumaris are placed certain great rude stones much after the fashion of this draught here (in margin): * * * *. The cavity is about five foot; I remember a mountain beast (or two) were at shade within it." Sir Timothy Littleton, one of the judges that went this circuit obtained a further account for Aubrey, from "a resident justice of the peace at Holyhead from which it appears that these great rough stones were about 20 in number and between 4 and 5 foot high: at the northern end stand two stones on end about two yards high above ground. Some are sunk deep and some fallen flat, which are almost overgrown with earth and grasse. They are called Y Lleche [Map] (i.e. The Stones.) They stand upon a hillock, in the parish of Caer-Gybi."There is no notice of this monument either in Pennant or Rowland; though part of the preceding account was copied in Gibson's Camden, (1695, p. 679.) They are clearly the stones above Holy-head referred to by Aubrey in his description of Avebury Wiltshire Archæol. Mag., vol iv., p. 317.

Note 4. Aubrey's inserted notice of Wayland Smyth contains in almost every line some ill founded assertion or crude hvpothesis; it is as follows:—

Mdm. On the top of White-Horse-hill is a Barrow called by the name of dragon-Hill. This rich and pleasant Vale of White Horse, Hengist or Horsa (a Saxon king—vide in Drayton's Polyolbion) tooke into his possession. Hengist signifies a horse, as also Horsa. The White-Horse was their Standard at the Conquest of Britaine, which is the origine of the White Horse cutt out in this chalkie hill, which is seen many miles from thence; by the several barrows hereabout one may perceive here how many (?) battels fought. That Uter Pendragon fought against the Saxons is certayne: perhaps was here slayne, from whence Dragon-hill may take its denomination. And this great sepulchre called Wayland Smyth is not unlikely to be a great and rude monument of Hengist or Horsa, for in their countrey remaine many monuments like it. Vide Olai Wormii Monumenta Danica, v. p. 16."

Then follows the sketch of the monument, as in our anastatic plate, headed Wayland Smyth, about half-a-mile west from the White Horse in Berks."

Although Aubrey is our best witness, we do not depend entirely on him for the fact that this monument formed part of a long barrow. Wise, who followed Aubrey about seventy years later, described it in 1738, whilst in much the same condition as when seen by his predecessor, and long before the trees which now cover it had been planted, or many of the outlying stones removed, which was done towards the close of the last century, for the purpose of building a barn." 2 Wise says expressly that "the stones that are left enclose a piece of ground of an irregular figure at present, but which formerly might have been an oblong square, extending duly North and South;"¹ —a description which is borne out by the sketches of the monument which accompany his letter. Wise describes the "Cavern" as on the east side of the southern extremity of the enclosed piece of ground raised a few feet above the common level," and as consisting of Three squarish flat stones of about four or five feet over each way, set on edge, and supporting a Fourth of much larger dimensions, lying flat upon them. These altogether form a Cavern * * * * which may shelter ten or a dozen sheep from a storm." "There seem," says Wise, "to have been two approaches to our Altar (for so he would make the flat stone) "through rows of large stones set on edge, one from the South, the other from the West, the latter leading directly into the Cavern." What Wise regarded as a western approach is really a side chamber, differing only from that opposite to it on the east, in having its covering stone removed.

Note 1. Letter to Dr. Mead concerning Antiquities in Berkshire, 1738, pp. 34—39. Wise attributes Wayland Smith's Cave to the Danes, making it the sepulchre of their king Bagsec, slain at Ascesdun in 871; as Aubrey, with equal improbability, makes it the monument of Hengist or Horsa. Sir Walter Scott (Notes to Kenilworth, chap. 13,) adopts Wise's view; but he never saw the place, and, as the author of the Scouring of the White Horse" (1859 p. 69) says, "He should have known better. The Danish king was no more buried there than in Westminster."

The chamber which retains its covering stone intact, and which forms the so called cave or smithy of Wayland, measures about 5 feet in length, by 4 in width. It is at present about 4½ feet in height in the interior. This, however, can hardly be regarded as the true height of the chamber. That in the West Kennet chambered barrow, likewise formed of large Sarsen blocks, was between 7 and 8 feet in height; and there can be little doubt that the uprights which support the cap-stone in the Berkshire example extend almost as much below the present surface as they stand above it. This is an opinion in which the writer is confirmed by a resident gentleman Of intelligence, who at his request, some years since, examined the stones in reference to this question. There is, further, every reason to suppose that, whatever may be the case as to the western and terminal chambers, this eastern one has never been cleared out to the bottom, and that it would repay the trouble of excavation, by the disclosure of the original sepulchral deposit. It is much to be desired that such an examination should be made, as might be done at no great expense and without injury to this now celebrated monument. Had the zealous antiquary, Mr. E. Martin Atkins, of Kingston Lisle, been longer spared to us, he might perhaps, with the permission of Lord Craven, and residing as be did in the immediate neighbourhood, have undertaken this examination.¹

Note. About the year 1810, the ground covering and surrounding the stones was planted With fir trees and beeches, forming a circular plantation, such as the people here call a "folly" - Wayland's Folly. Two years ago, the firs having died were cut down, but the exterior ring of beeches remains. The whole spot is now in a neglected state; covered with elder-bushes, briars and nettles, which render its inspection very difficult and sadly interfere with the religio loci. It is much to be desired that the whole enclosure within the beeches should be cleared and put in order, as was done, by Lord Craven's direction, some forty years since, when, as Scott tells us, the monument itself was cleared out and made considerably more conspicuous." It should be added to what is stated above, that the shepherds and others say, that on driving a crow-bar into the ground near the Cave, "a very hollow sound is produced, and that they are satisfied there is a cavity beneath.

Nearly all the more remarkable sepulchral mounds of our country bear traces, when excavated, of a prior opening. They appear to have been rifled in search of treasure, in very early times, and especially perhaps during the Roman period. This, on the White Horse Hill, in the parish of Ashbury, seems not only to have been dug into, but to have been in part levelled and cleared away, and the contained chambers, or cromlechs², as they are sometimes called, exposed, and, to a great extent, thrown down. The chamber, which was allowed to retain its cap-stone, seems in early, and probably pagan, Saxon times to have received the name of Weland's Smithy. Such at least was its name in the tenth century, as is proved by a charter of Eadred A.D. 955, in which "Weland's Smithy" (Welandes smiððan) is named in the boundaries of an estate at Compton near Ashdown, where the smithy is represented as situate on the west side of a wide road, or opening (geat), near the Ridge-way.³ It is clear, as has been observed by Mr. T. Wright, that the name of Weland's Smithy could not have been assigned to this place unless the chamber were then exposed.⁴

Note 2. Cromlechs are probably all sepulchral monuments; but, With Sir Gardner Wilkinson, the writer thinks a broad distinction is to be drawn between the cromlech and the subterraneous chamber which has been covered with a mound, such as was this of Ashbury. The cromlech has been confounded with the subterraneous chamber which frequently has a long covered passage leading into it; * * * but this last is not properly a cromlech," (Journ. Brit. Archæol. Assoc. vol. xvi, p. 116.); though it has received that name, as the Cromlech Du Tug, in Guernsey. Some Cromlechs stand on a platform, slightly raised above the adjacent ground, but I know of none that have been covered by a tumulus, or mound Of earth, Of which they form the chamber." Ibid, Vol. xvii. P. 47.

Note 3. Kemble, Cod. Diplom., NO. 1172. Eádred grants "ministro su0 Ælfheho eight "cassatos" at "Cumtune" (sc. Compton Beauchamp, in Berks) juxta montem qui vocatur Æscesdun (Ash-down)." MS. Cott. Claud., B. vi., fol. 406.

Note 4. Archæologia, vol. xxxiii., p. 268. Journal Brit. Archæol. Association, vol. xvi., p. 51,

A few remarks must be made on the name. This is clearly a slight corruption of the Saxon name of Weland's Smithy. The local designation for the last two centuries has been simply Wayland Smith's Cave, as the present generation have learned to call it. As Wayland-Smyth " it appears in the MS. of Aubrey; as "Wayland-Smith" in the pages of Wise, and the same even in those of Gough³ and King⁴, and in Lysons⁵, as late as 1813. Wise offers an etymology for the name. After giving the story of the invisible smith, he proceeds as follows stones standing upon the Rudge-way, as it is called, I suppose, gave occasion to the whole being called Wayland-Smith: which is the name it was always known by to the country people." As thus explained, Sir Richard Hoare might well speak of it as "a ridiculous name given to a British monument of very high antiquity." But though the etymology of Wise is sufficiently absurd, he has preserved what appeared an idle story of the peasantry, but by which, since the time when Sir Richard Hoare and Sir Walter Scott wrote, modern research has been enabled to recover the true origin of the name. ‘Wise says, " All the account, which the country people are able to give of it, is ¢ At this place lived formerly an invisible Smith, and if a traveller's Horse had lost a Shoe upon the road, he had no more to do, than to bring the Horse to this place, with a piece of money, and leaving both there for some little time, he might come again and find the money gone, but the Horse new shod." This story is still laughingly told by the villagers, in almost the same words.

Note 3. Gough's Camden, 1789; 2nd Ed. 1806, vol. i., p. 221.

Note 4. King, Munimenta Antiqua 1799, vol. i. p. 130.

Note 5. Lysons, Berkshire, 1813, p. 215. A little way to the west of Uflington Castle, near the ridgeway leading over the Downs, there is a considerable tumulus, commonly called Wayland-Smith; (Vide ante, p. 316.) Lysons gives a small view of the chamber, Showing its position with reference to the Ridgeway and to Uffington Castle.

In his notes to Kenilworth, Sir Walter Scott says "it was believed that Wayland's fee was six-pence," (elsewhere he says "a silver groat,") "and that unlike other workmen he was offended if more was offered." The country people at the present time, say the fee was "a penny." Another story they have of him,—"that he had a servant or apprentice, whom he one day sent down the hill, for fire to Shrivenham, five miles off; that the boy, lingering by the way, enraged Wayland, who cast a huge stone at him, when at the distance of a mile, which struck him on the heel, and left the print of his foot on the stone. The boy, it is said, sat down and cried at the spot, at a place called Odstone Farm, which to this day is known as Snivelling Corner.¹ A stone, a Sarsen block much mutilated, is still shown by the rustics as that with which this feat was performed. A shepherd of Uffington, a neighbouring village, who wrote rhymes early in the century, on "the stories the old voke do tell," says;—

If you along the Rudgeway go,

About a mile for aught I know,

There Wayland's cave then you may see

Surrounded by a group of trees.

They say that in this cave did dwell

A smith that was invisible;

At last he was found out, they say,

He blew up the place and vlod away.²

To Devonshire then he did go,;

Tull of sorrow, grief, and woe,

Never to return again;

So here I'll add the shepherd's name—

Job Cork. (Ob. 1807, etat, 67).

Note 1. The story given above was taken down, by the writer, from the mouths of peasants, in the parishes of Ashbury and Compton, in the present year, It contains some particulars not given by Mr. Akerman,

Note 2. Sir Walter Scott had perhaps heard of this part of the story. See his account of the explosion of Wayland Smith's dwelling, in the Eleventh Chapter of Kenilworth, first published in 1821. Scott calls the "cave" "Wayland Smith's Forge," which is the name in the Ordnance Map, No. xxxiv, published in 1828, and was probably taken from this celebrated fiction.

It was reserved for M. Depping¹ to show that in the Wayland of Berkshire tradition is to be traced Vœlund or Weland the Smith, so famous in connexion with the Norse mythology, as well as in the legends of our Saxon forefathers. His story is told at great length in the Edda; and, with variations, in the Wilkina Saga: in brief it is as follows. Vœlund was the son of the giant Wade, who obtained from the mountain dwergr or dwarfs, the art of working metals by fire; and excelled in making arms and in all kinds of smith's work. He fell into the hands of King Nidung, in Jutland, who, to ensure his remaining at his forge, had him hamstrung and the tendons of his feet cut; he avenged himself by killing the king's two sons and outraging his daughter, and finally flew away, with wings of his own construction, into Seeland.

Note 1. Veland le Forgeron, &c., par G. B. Depping et Francisque Michel, Paris, 1833. DM. Depping published his original essay in English, in 1822, in the New Monthly Mag., vol. iv., p. 527. The later Dissertation has been translated by Mr. S. W. Singer (Pickering, 1847, 12mo,) "Wayland Smith a Tradition of the Middle Ages, from the French;" and from this we quote. The reader may refer to the papers in which Mr, T. Wright has given a more condensed account of the legend; (Archwmologia, 1847, vol. xxxii., p. 315; Journ. Brit. Arch. Assoc. vol. xvi.); and likewise to Keightley's "Tales and Popular Traditions," (1834, p. 270.) It was the publication of Keniiworth which, as he himself avows, led to that of M. Depping's Essay; and also to the remarks on the legend of Wayland, by Price, in his introduction to "Warton's History of English Poetry," in 1824. The writer is not aware whether Grimm or the Danish writers, who wrote on the story of Vwlund at an earlier date, have taken any notice of the Berkshire story, but he concludes that they were not aware of its existence.